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Wine Buy: Il Mimo
Il Mimo, The Mime, is the name of a dry rosé made from the Nebbiolo grape in the Piedmont region of Italy. It is rare – if not unique – to have a rosé from Nebbiolo, as it is considered the most noble red grape of Italy. It's the grape used for Barolo and Barbareso, which are considered among the grandest red wines of Italy.
This wine, however, goes totally against type. It is delightful and pretty, not grand. It's a great bottle for the summer. Well chilled it is very refreshing and has enough body and flavor to withstand a deep chill with good flavor and a fruity bouquet. It's dark strawberry color follows through with strawberry-like flavors, but it is completely, totally dry. Carol Berman detects anise in it, too. But you know how wine geeks are. They detect flavors that no one else can.
Il Mimo has a distinctive label depicting a reddish face mask, which led Carol to call it "the phantom of the wine shop." If you ask me, the label is creepy, but it is so unmistakable that you don't have to know that the official denominazione di origine controllata of the wine is Colline Novaresi (the Novaro Hills – the town of Ghemme to be exact) and that it is produced by a company called Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo. The vintage we tried and that is currently in the market is 2001. Drink it this summer, then look for 2002 next summer.
I finished off our tasting bottle with fried chicken. The good acidity of the wine cut through the fried surface of the chicken, which is good. I wished I had some macaroni salad to go with it. But I don't think you have to be too careful about which foods you eat with this wine: It will go with anything -- or nothing.
The wine is imported by Suma Vitis in San Francisco, (415) 922-3241. Carol says it is well distributed, but in case your wine merchant needs to order it for you, he will like to know that is distributed by Douglas Polaner of New York and New Jersey. It should cost about $11.99.
