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05/11/1999 Archived Entry: "Let us eat cake"

On yesterday’s “Food Talk” program, I mentioned that two people brought cake to Adventures in Cooking, the cookware, cookbook and table-top store (with cooking school) in Wayne, N.J., where I spent several hours Saturday signing “Naples At Table” for Mother’s Day gifts. Like I really need more cake in my life.

Anyway, I was thrilled to know about European Bakery, which specializes in Eastern European pastries, miniature Viennese pastries, and occasion cakes. Listener Val brought me a sampling of butter-creamy miniatures, beautiful little cake sculptures; very sweet, but soft and soothing and expertly wrought. I have no idea what they cost, but if you want more information, call the bakery. It’s at 317 Main St., Boonton, N.Y. 07005; (973) 334-9284. Val joked that he and his wife used to go back to Czechoslovakia every now and then just to eat pastries, but now that he had the European Bakery it wasn’t necessary anymore.

Listener Bettina Bley, who is also Eastern European (I’m embarrassed to say I forgotten from where exactly) brought me small chocolate-covered triangles of what I can best describe as Hungarian Dobosh torte, or what Americans might call seven-layer cake; a really fine, thin version of seven-layer. She makes these herself and is trying to make them into a business. So far, she’s sold some to caterers and party planners, but she’s willing to sell privately with a minimum order of 50. I think they’re great for a party or for a party favor. Bettina wraps each two- to three-inch triangle in cellophane and ties it with a ribbon. Her price starts at 75 cents each. You can contact Bettina, whose business is called Zebra, at (201) 445-1464. Or you can e-mail her at bcbley@aol.com.

From the e-mail
Michelle writes that she’s recently become vegetarian and she’s enjoying it. She asks what restaurants will accommodate her new eating style.

There are many vegetarian friendly restaurants in NYC. In fact, many top restaurants now make a point of having a vegetarian entree that the chef has put as much thought into as he does his fish, meat, and poultry dishes. At worst, you can ask for a combination of the side dishes that are offered with the entrees. These are often more interesting than the main event anyway. (How many times have you meat eaters ordered a dish because you had to have the polenta that came with it, or the potato dish, or the “ragout” of wild mushrooms. You get the idea.)

For strictly vegetarian food, I’d suggest trying Angelica Kitchen, which is rather hippie dippy, in the ‘60s sense, but excellent in its genre. It's at 300 E. 12th St., just east of Second Ave.; (212) 228-2909. I suppose it’s a throwback (or perhaps leftover) from the days when this neighborhood was East Coast Hippie Central. It looks the part, too. And it’s inexpensive to moderate in price, and has a friendly communal table for single diners.

Manhattan actually has a number of strictly vegetarian restaurants. Right now I am personally very high on Pongal, which is kosher Indian vegetarian. (Only in New York, right?) Even though the restaurant is strictly supervised for kashruth (the Jewish dietary laws), the restaurant attracts quite a few non-kosher diners, including a reassuringly large number of Indian vegetarians. (It is open on Saturdays and weekend lunch seems to attract a young Indian crowd.)Pongal is stylishly decorated, in a folkloric mode. It’s not a kitschy, ethnic hole in the wall. It’s at 110 Lexington Ave., near 27th St.; (212) 696-9458. (As to ordering, I’ve yet to master the menu, but can tell you that dosas, huge stuffed lentil flour pancakes, are a must, and that I love the curried chickpeas.)

Let me add that Italian restaurants are excellent for vegetarians: There is always a good selection of vegetable antipasti, vegetable side dishes, and pastas, not to mention fish if you are one of those veggies (like Michelle) who eschew only meat and poultry. Greek, Turkish, and Middle Eastern restaurants are also vegetarian friendly. They serve many vegetable appetizers and, in general, always have fresh fish, simply grilled.

More on this another time, because it is a really popular topic. If you have any ideas to add, please e-mail me by clicking on Feedback.