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10/22/1999 Archived Entry: "Gimme Meatloaf"

Iris came in this morning with one thing on her mind: Emergency! The search engine on the web-site doesn’t work.

“I did a search for meatloaf and couldn’t find the new recipe,” she said, actually interrupting my instructions for proof-reading the new set of Favorite Recipes going up on the site at any moment. “You try it. You see what it lists,” she said.

To cut to the chase, there is nothing wrong with the search engine. (In case you never knew, it’s that blank space on the top of the left-hand red band on every page – just plug in a keyword and see what it turns up.)

The problem is that this meatloaf recipe, which has come to be known around here as “the new meatloaf recipe,” was never on the web-site. Indeed, there is not even an old meatloaf recipe on the web-site.

And what self-respecting food web-site, no matter how small, can go without a meatloaf recipe.

This one I cobbled together one night when I realized that I had a five-and-a-half-pound “Family Pack” of ground beef in my freezer and it was time to either use it or lose it. The rest of the ingredients I happen to have in the house. I think anyone would, except maybe for the can of Hunt’s tomato sauce. I like Hunt’s in my meatloaf strictly for nostalgic reasons, and I keep it on hand solely against the day I need some old-time meatloaf comfort. Naturally, you can substitute a cup of any plain tomato sauce.

If you think I use a lot of bread in my mix, I’ll tell you that it’s what keeps the loaf light, a lesson I learned from making Neapolitan meatballs. (See Naples At Table)

My New Meatloaf
Makes 2 loaves; at least 12 servings

I hope you get the irony in the name.

3 medium onions, finely minced (about 3 cups)
2 tablespoons peanut oil (or other vegetable oil)
5 eggs
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce (I used the new Angostura Worcestershire)
1 rounded teaspoon dried thyme
2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon freshly and coarsely ground black pepper
1 8-ounce can Hunt’s tomato sauce (I did not use the low-salt variety)
5 1/2 pounds ground beef
1 quart fresh breadcrumbs (see note)

In a medium skillet, fry the onions in the peanut oil over medium heat until the onions are deep golden, even beginning to brown a little.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, beat together the eggs, Worcestershire sauce, thyme, salt, pepper, and the can of tomato sauce.

In a very large bowl, combine the beef, the fried onions, the breadcrumbs, and the liquid mixture. Starting with a table fork, mix all the ingredients together, making sure to bring the meat from the bottom of the bowl to the top. Once the mixture is amalgamated, start using your hands to make sure it is thoroughly mixed and especially that the bread is well incorporated.

To form the loaves, scoop up half the mixture with two hands, pressing it together while still holding it over the bowl, then transfer it to a baking sheet. Shape into a loaf 10 to 12 inches long and 5 to 6 inches wide. Compact the loaf well by pressing it together, then smooth the surface (and cracks or crevices) with your fingertips.

Prepare the second loaf as you did the first. Refrigerate until an hour or so before baking, then let sit at room temperature to take the chill off the meat.

In a well-preheated 375-degree oven, bake for 1 hour and 10 minutes. Allow to rest 15 to 20 minutes before slicing.

Note: To make the breadcrumbs, I used a loaf of supermarket Italian bread. I sliced off the crusts and pulsed the bread, a handful of cubes at a time, in the blender. Do not crowd the bowl or overwork the crumbs or they will compact. They should remain fluffy. (Supermarket sliced bread is too sweet for my taste, but it will do, certainly.)