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05/08/2000 Archived Entry: "Feasting on Asparagus"

To peel or not to peel the asparagus. That was the question last week. I confess: I don’t often peel them, although I know they can taste a tiny bit better when you do. It’s a nicety I am willing to forgo in order to get a big bunch of asparagus on the table without too much effort. Peeling asparagus has to be one of the most tedious kitchen chores there are, vying, perhaps, with peeling fava beans, although I do feel that is a necessity unless the beans are as small as your pinky nail.

There were three or four stands selling New Jersey asparagus at my local Greenmarket on Saturday, and I couldn’t resist buying more than I should have. At the stand I bought them, they were $6 for a huge bunch – I guess four pounds, at least. I didn’t weigh them. That afternoon I made eggs Milanese for me and a friend – bull’s eye fried eggs with boiled asparagus, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano and browned butter from the egg skillet. Dipping the asparagus spears in egg yolks mingled with cheese and butter, mopping our plates with a sturdy roll from the Bread Alone stand, sitting by my kitchen window, outside of which is a crab apple tree in pink bloom, we were in heaven. I was told the asparagus were cut that morning and they tasted as if there were: vibrant and nutty and very firm.

I peeled those asparagus, after having snapped off no more than about an inch and half of bottom. They weren’t at all woody. Then I boiled them in lightly salted water for about six minutes. They continued to cook slightly as they cooled on a plate lined with a paper towel.

On Sunday, I made a frittata with the asparagus and chives that I had also bought at the Greenmarket. I know I was wallowing in eggs, as well as asparagus, but the eggs were also from the farmer’s market and I wanted to enjoy them while they were still as fresh as the asparagus.

For four jumbo eggs, to make a thin, 10-inch frittata to feed two, I cut 14 medium diameter asparagus sharply on the diagonal into 1 1 /2-inch pieces. I didn’t peel these. I just snapped off the bottoms. I sauteed the asparagus pieces in a little butter, and with a little salt, until they were just done; which is to say for about 5 minutes, until they were still a tiny bit firm. I added them to the four beaten eggs with about two tablespoons of grated Parmigiano, a touch more salt, a few grinds of black pepper, and about 1/4 cup snipped chives.

I put a pat of fresh butter into my skillet, poured in the egg mixture, making sure to distribute the asparagus evenly throughout (just by pushing them around with the table fork I beat the eggs with), and cooked the frittata over medium-low heat until set on the bottom. As the frittata cooks, I pick up the edge all around and let some of the uncooked egg on top run under the pancake, and I shake the skillet so the frittata doesn’t stick. Even with that, a non-stick pan really helps when you are making eggs. Finally, when the top is just wet, but not overly runny, I slide the frittata out onto a large plate, then flip it uncooked side down into the skillet, where it needs but a minute or so to finish cooking. If you are too insecure about flipping a frittata (like anything, it just takes a little practice) slide the pan under your broiler for a minute, or even less, just to firm the top.

Tonight I am going to eat the remaining asparagus while they still taste reasonably just-picked. I feel asparagus and macaroni coming on; mostly asparagus with just enough macaroni to give the dish substance. I just ate one raw and I have to say that even on their third day out of the ground they taste so much better than anything you can buy in the supermarket.