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03/07/2001 Archived Entry: "Wine Buy: Altos Malbec"

Altos Las Hormigas Malbec 2000, $10.99 (or less), imported by Michael Skurnik, Syosset, Long Island.

Altos is the brand. Las Hormigas, which means “the ants,” is the name of the particular vineyard where the grapes are grown. Malbec is the grape variety. (If you can’t find the wine at your local wine merchant, suggest he order it. Having the name of the importer will help him do that.)


Malbec is a polific but minor grape variety in Bordeaux, where it is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Cabernet Franc in the region’s famous red wines. In Bordeaux, it contributes fruitiness to wines that are dominated by aristocratic Cabernet and supple Merlot.

Malbec can have another character, however, depending on where it is grown. In the limestone highland of southwest France, where it is known by the name Auxerrois (or Cot), it makes a wine so inky in color that it has become known as the “black wine of Cahors,” referring to its main town of production. In my lifetime, Cahors has not been as “black” as its reputation would have it. I can see what the reference is about, though, when I drink Malbec from Argentina.

The grape has been planted extensively in the Mendoza region of Argentina and although the Argentine wine can sometimes be light in color and body, it is more frequently rich and dark and immensely satisfying, although never really complex or sophisticated. Malbec is not considered a “noble” grape, but in Argentina, the wine it produces is the perfect accompaniment to the food of the country: Beef.

I went to Argentina two years ago and was astounded at how much beef the locals eat. It is grass grazed meat, too (on those famous Pampas), as opposed to the grain-finished meat we have in the U.S., so Argentine beef has a stronger flavor and firmer texture: It is big beef, served mainly with potatoes and salad and rarely other vegetables. Given the country’s strong southern Italian heritage, it was no surprise that after beef, pizza and pasta reign, especially pasta with meat sauce. Malbec goes beautifully with all of them. And just last night, I also appreciated sipping the Altos Las Hormigas with chunks of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Actually, any characterful cheese would be enhanced by this dark, rich wine.