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The Food Maven Diary
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04/03/2001 Archived Entry: "Cabbage and Matzoh Farfel"
Back in 1993, I must have conducted a “Passover Favorites” recipe contest, which was probably a promotion for one of my sponsors. (Who can remember?) Because, looking through my Passover files last week, I found a slew of recipes submitted by listeners that were marked “My Passover Favorite.” I wish I could remember what the winning recipe was. Maybe one of you can. At any rate, this was one of those that appealed to me most – last week, not back then. It’s something different for me. We never made such a thing in my family. However, it is very traditional. It was sent to me by Shelley Smith of Mahopac, who tells me that it was her Hungarian grandmother’s, by way of her recently deceased mother, Dorothy Kalish. That make sense. My paternal grandmother, who had a part Hungarian background, made cabbage with noodles, to which this dish is akin. Indeed, when I told Shelley this, she told me that her grandmother also made this with noodles when it wasn’t for Passover.
I tried the recipe last Friday and it’s delicious. Making the farfel is a bit of a fuss, but not too much, and the whole thing can be made as much as several days ahead. For many observant families this would not be acceptable for the seders or until the end of Passover week, when, finally, one is allowed to moisten matzoh. If it is not for the seder meal, which is generally a meat meal, you can make it a dairy dish by using butter. On the other hand, chicken fat (schmaltz) would be my fat of choice for a meat menu. The portion of fat comes to only one half tablespoon a serving, which is not such a terrible thing and gives the dish its taam, or flavor, as one says in Yiddish. Vegetable oil will do the job, but has so little if any flavor that it would be my last choice. By the way, my grandmother only made cabbage and noodles when she had goose fat or chicken fat. She considered it essential. Her recipe also differs in that she browned the onions before adding the cabbage, which you may want to do, too. ”Krow Pletzla” Cabbage and Matzoh Farfel Serves about 8 2 1/2 to 3-pound cabbage 2 medium onions 4 tablespoons chicken fat, vegetable oil, or butter 1/2 teaspoon salt 2 eggs 1/4 teaspoon salt 3 cups matzoh farfel Freshly ground pepper Cut the head of cabbage in half and cut out the hard core. Shred the cabbage as finely as possible. Rinse well in a colander, then dry well. Peel the onions, cut in half through the root ends, then cut into thin slices. In a 12-inch or larger skillet, heat the chicken fat, oil or butter. Add the cabbage and onion, season with 1/2 teaspoon salt, toss well, then cook over medium heat, tossing regularly, until the cabbage is wilted, tender and has turned tan, about 30 minutes. When done, set aside in the skillet. While the cabbage is cooking, in a large mixing bowl, beat the eggs and 1/4 teaspoon salt. Add the farfel and toss it well in the egg to coat the matzoh thoroughly. Spread the farfel out on a baking sheet and place in a 350-degree oven for 45 minutes, or until a golden tan, removing it after 15 minutes and separating the matzoh by breaking it up in fistfuls. The matzoh may be too hot for you to handle, so you may have to let it cool a few minutes to do this. Make sure to close the oven door while waiting. You may have to do this twice, after another 15 minutes or so. The goal is to make each piece of egg-coated matzoh separate. When the matzoh has been toasted, bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil, salt the water lightly, then boil the farfel for 5 minutes. Drain in a colander. Combine the farfel with the cabbage and toss together, seasoning to taste with freshly ground pepper. Serve hot. (The whole dish can be made ahead, cooled and refrigerated. Reheat – as many as several days later – in a dry skillet (no need to add more fat).
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