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04/19/2001 Archived Entry: "Kosher Naples At Table"

When I sign books at events I am often approached by potential buyers who say, "I would love to buy your book, Naples At Table, but I’m kosher."

I feel compelled to point out that 1) One does not need an exclusively kosher cookbook to cook kosher. There are plenty of kosher recipes in books written for the general audience. 2) That because Italian cooking, and Neapolitan cooking in particular (or I should say the cooking of the Italian south in general), is strong on pasta, vegetables, and fish dishes, much of it is kosher. And, 3) I have what I call a “kosher concordance” to “Naples At Table.” It is a list of recipes in the book that are kosher without any changes, and that’s about a third of the recipes in the book.

Many other recipes in the book also can be prepared according to Jewish dietary laws with small changes. There are some recipes, for instance, where olive oil can be substituted for any pork fat called for in the recipe. If both oil and, say panceta (Italian bacon), are called for in a recipe, just add a bit more olive oil and leave out the panceta. The flavor will be slightly different, but good.

If cheese is used to garnish a pasta with meat, just don’t serve the cheese. You can, however, sprinkle the top with toasted breadcrumbs, or breadcrumbs sautéed briefly in olive oil. It adds a nice crunch.

As for the meat recipes, the flavorings and techniques used for non-kosher cuts can be used for kosher cuts.

There are no ingredients in Naples At Table, other than pork products, pork fat and shell fish, that you can’t use in a kosher kitchen. Canned tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil, olives, capers, anchovies, oregano, are all readily available. Even kosher Parmigiano-Reggiano, the real stuff from Parma, Italy, sold in a solid wedge, as it should be (as opposed to pre-grated), supervised by a rabbi who is acceptable to the Lubuvitch community (to name a particularly observant group) is available. I find it at Zabar’s on Broadway and 81st St., in Manhattan, but there must be other sources for it.

I must thank my friend Avi Keller, who supervises kashruth for a living, for composing this list. It starts with the first chapter and goes through desserts.


ANTIPASTI E FRITTI
Alici Marinate (Marinated Anchovies)
Bruschetta Napoletana (Tomato-topped Toasts)
Pate Delle Due Sicilie (Mushroom Spread)
Fritto di Vento (Fried Dough)
Cresciute di Baccala, Olive e Capperi alla Rosa Mazzela (Salt-Cod Croquettes)
Crochette di Patate (Potato Croquettes)
Palle di Riso (Rice Croquettes)
Croche di Besciamella (Bechamel Croquettes)
Crostate di Tagliolini (Fried Pasta Cakes)
Zucchini a Fiammifero (Fried Zucchini)
Carciofi Indorati e Fritti (Fried Artichokes)
Calzoncini (Fried Cheese Crescents)


THE CLASSIC SAUCES
Sugo di Pomodoro (Tomato Sauce)
Chunky Fresh Tomato Sauce
Filetto di Pomodoro (Fileted Tomato Sauce)
Sugo di Pomodori Pelati (Tomato Sauce from Canned Tomatoes)
Ragu Napoletano – (Using the Italian sausage, which is now available with kosher meat)
Cecilia’s Genovese (Onion Sauce)


PIZZA
Pizza Napoletana (Basic Pizza Dough)
Pizza alla Marinara (Pizza with Tomatoes, Garlic, Oregano)
Pizza Margherita (Pizza with Tomatoes and Mozzarella)
Pizza di Patate e Cipolle (Pizza with Potatoes and Onions)
Pizza di Scarola (Escarole Pie)


MINESTRA E ZUPPA
Pasta e Fagioli (Pasta and Beans)
Pasta e Lenticchie (Pasta and Lentils)
Pasta con Ceci (Pasta and Chick Peas)
Pasta e Zucca (Pasta and Squash)
Zupa di Sante (Chicken Soup with Meatballs and Escarole)
Zuppa di Fagioli e Scarola (Soup with Beans and Escarole)
Minestra di Zucchine Cacio e Uova (Zucchini Soup with Egg Drops)
Pane Duro con Broccoli di Rapa (Cooked Bread with Broccoli Rabe)


PASTA
Tubetti Cacio e Uova (Small Tubes with Eggs and Cheese)
Spaghetti di Ettore (Spaghetti with Roasted Peppers and Fried Eggs)
Spaghetti Con Acciughe (Spaghetti with Anchovies)
Linguine all 'Amalfitana (Spaghetti with Anchovies and Walnuts)
Spaghetti Con Tonno sott' Olio (Spaghetti with Canned Tuna)
Bucatini alla Caruso (Pasta with Tomato Sauce and Fried Zucchini)
Maccheroni con Ricotta e Salsa di Pomodoro (Pasta with Ricotta and Tomato Sauce)
Spaghetti Sciue Sciue alla Caprese (Spaghetti with Cherry Tomato Sauce, Capri-style)
Spaghetti Marinara alla Cecilia (Spaghetti with Tomatoes, Olives, Capers, and Anchovies)
Orecchiette con Broccoli di Rapa (Pasta “Ears” with Broccoli Rabe)
Spaghetti con Melanzane e Mozzarella (Spaghetti with Eggplant and Mozzarella)
Crema di Funghi (Mushroom Cream Sauce)
Bucatini con Peperoni Arrostiti (Pasta with Roasted Peppers)
Fritatta di Scammaro (Fried Pasta Cake with Olives, Capers and Anchovies)


CHEESE AND EGGS
Scamorza alla Griglia (Grilled Cheese)
Scamorza alla Pizzaiola (Cheese in Tomato Sauce with Garlic and Oregano)
Mozzarella Milanese (Fried Mozzarella Slices)
Insalate Caprese (Mozzarella, Tomato and Basil Salad)
Spiedini Napoletani (Fried Mozzarella Sandwiches)
Uova Purgatorio (Eggs Poached in Tomato Sauce)
Frittata (Open-face Omelet)
Frittata di spaghetti (Spaghetti Omelet)


FISH
Pesce all 'Acqua Pazza (Fish Simmered in Flavored Water)
Pesce con Olive, Capperi, e Limone (Fish Crusted with Olives and Capers, in Lemon)
Baccala in Bianco (Salt Cod Salad)
Baccala in Fritto (Fried Salt Cod)
Baccala con Peperoni Arrostiti (Salt Cod with Roasted Peppers)
Baccala Arrecanato (Salt Cod and Potato Casserole)


MEAT AND POULTRY
Bistecca (o Carne) Alla Pizzaiola (Steak Cooked in Tomato Sauce)
Agnello o Capretto al Forno (Roasted Lamb or Goat with Tomatoes, Onions, and Herbs)
Salsicce al Pomodoro (Sausage Cooked in Tomato Sauce)
Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken Braised with Tomatoes)
Pollo al Limone di Agata Lima (Chicken in Lemon Sauce)
Anitra Alle Lenticchie (Duck with Lentils)
Quaglie di Mondragone (Braised Quail in the style of Mondragone)


VEGETABLES
Carciofi Imbottiti (Stuffed Artichokes)
Carciofi e Patate in Umido (Braised Artichokes and Potatoes)
Modestina Evangelista's Fagiolata (A “Mess” of Beans)
Broccoli di Rapa Affogati (“Smothered” Broccoli Rabe)
Verza Stufata o Affogata (“Smothered” Cabbage)
La Spiritosa (Pickled Carrots)
Fagiolini in Padella (Sautéed Stringbeans)
Insalata di Fagiolini e Patate (Stringbean and Potato Salad with Red Onion)
Melanzane o Zucchine alla Griglia (Grilled Eggplant or Zucchini)
Polpette di Melanzane (Eggplant “Meatballs”)
Melanzane al Funghetto in Agrodolce (Sweet and Sour Eggplant)
Melanzane in Agrodolce al Pomodoro (Sweet and Sour Eggplant with Tomatoes)
Melanzane a Scarpetta (Stuffed Eggplant “Boats”)
Melanzane all Amalfitana (Breaded and Fried Eggplant)
Melanzane sott' Olio Estive (Pickled Eggplant I)
Melanzane sott’ Olio (Pickled Eggplant II)
Scarola Affogata (“Smothered” Escarole – or other leafy green vegetable)
Mucilli (Stuffed Escarole)
Indiva Imbottita Affogata (Stuffed and “Smothered” Belgian Endive)
Peperoni Arrostiti (Roasted Peppers)
Peperoni in Padella (Sauteed Peppers)
Peperoni Gratinati (Casserole of Roasted Peppers)
Peperoni Imbottiti Salernitani (Stuffed Peppers, Salerno-style)
Peperoni Imbottiti di Ida Cerbone (Stuffed Pepper from Ida Cerbone)
Peperoni sott’ Olio (Pickled Peppers)
Patate Arriganate (Roasted Potatoes)
Pomodori al Gratin (Tomato Casserole)
Insalata di Pomodori (Tomato Salad)
La Caponata Napoletana (Tomato and Bread Salad with Canned Tuna)
Zucchine a Scapece (Pickled, Fried Zucchini)
Cianfotta Napoletana (Mixed Vegetable Casserole)
Insalata di Rinforzo (Cauliflower Salad with Olives, Peppers, and Anchovies)


DESSERTS
Crema Pasticciera I & II (Pastry Cream)
Scorzette di Arance (or Cedre) Candite (Candied Orange Peel)
Delizia di Marmellata (Ricotta Refrigerator Cake)
Zuppa Inglese (Pastry Cream and Cake Dessert)
Mele al Forno con Marmellata di Albicocca (Baked Apples with Apricot Marmalade)
Mele al Forno con Vino Bianco (Baked Apples with White Wine)
Zeppole di San Giuseppe (St. Joseph’s Day Beignets)
Quaresimali (Lenten Biscotti)
Mostaccioli (Christmas Spice Cookies)
Struffoli (Christmas Fried Dough Balls in Honey)
Coviglia al Caffe (Frozen Coffee Custard Dessert)
Semifreddo di Strega (Frozen Strega Zabaglione)
Palline al Cocco (Coconut Ricotta Balls)
Melanzane al Cioccolato (Eggplant with Chocolate)
Migliaccio di Ischia (Noodle Pudding from Ischia)
Baba (Yeast Cake)
Torta di Limone di Agata Lima (Lemon Pound Cake)
Torta Caprese di Giovanna Tafuri (Chocolate-Almond Torte from Capri)
Torta Secca di Mandorle e Arance (Almond Butter Cake)
Pizza di Amarene (Sour Cherry and Custard Pie)
Pastiera (Ricotta Cake with Whole Wheat Berries)
Torta di Ricotta Gregoriano (Ricotta Cake with Chocolate and Strega)
Liquore di Fragola (Strawberry Liqueur)
Limoncello (Lemon Liqueur)