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05/05/2001 Archived Entry: "Cecilia's Visit"

You could not ask for better houseguests than Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli-Baratta and her dear cousin, Giuliana di Lucia.

There, I’ve said it: Baronessa.

A couple of years ago, I asked Cecilia’s very grown son, Ettore (husband of Veronica, father of Gaetano and Lucio, and entitled to be called Barone Bellelli himself), if I should refer to his mother as the Baronessa. He thought a second, then joked “Only once a day.” This past week, I noticed how Giuliana ribbed Cecila a couple of times about the title, too -- as in, “Well, nothing is too good for La Baronessa.”

I mention all this because we Americans have a fascination about European titles. Cecilia got hers through her husband, whose late 18th century ancestor bred race and show horses that were purchased by a king of Naples. This king, however, was not a legitimate king of Naples. He, Joachim Murat, was the brother-in-law of Napoleon, who made him the king of Naples during his eight-year occupation of the kingdom. I know that some people would not consider Cecilia’s title to be legitimate, but since no titles are truly legitimate in Italy anyway, what’s the difference?

Title or none, Cecilia is a hard-working businesswoman. With her sons, she runs two farms that take in guests, plus a catering business. One farm grows olives for oil, fruit, and vegetables (artichokes are one of her important crops), and this is where the horses are bred and housed. It has a swimming pool with cabanas for the guests. The other farm is where the water buffalo are bred, and kept, and milked. Both farms have guest rooms decorated with antiques, although some of the rooms in a former grainery at the water buffalo farm are still under construction.

If you ever get to Cecilia’s agriturismo (touristic farm, or country farm/inn), you will see the original certificate giving the Bellelli ancestor his title hanging on the dining room wall. You should also note that Cecilia breeds horses to this day, and you can, indeed, go horseback riding here if you wish. Most guests would chose to hang out at the pool, and go visit the most perfectly preserved Greek Temples in the world, which are just down the road, or relax on the sandy “beaches of Salerno,” which are less than a mile from the farm. (Yes, this is exactly the spot where the Allies landed in 1943.) Another great activity is to rent a car and take a day-trip to the infrequently visited but very charming city of Salerno and the famous, romantic Amalfi Coast, only about a 30-minute drive, or drive up into the mountains behind the Sele plain, where there are country restaurants serving artisinal specialties. There is plenty to do, including eat Cecilia’s breakfast of homemade preserves and marmalades, freshly baked breakfast cake, water buffalo butter, and fruit. Dinner, which is optionally included in the “half-pension” rate, is prepared by local women, and always includes some of the water buffalo milk products – mozzarella, ricotta, and other cheeses.

Cecilia now has 15 rooms on the main farm, Tenuta Seliano, all with private baths because she knows Americans require such comforts. When complete, there will be nine rooms on the water buffalo farm, plus a kitchen large enough to hold cooking classes. You will likely see me there some day.

Click on Tenuta Seliano for more information, including pictures of the rooms and grounds.