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05/16/2001 Archived Entry: "Chimichurri from Argentina"

There are many, perhaps even an infinite number of versions of chimichurri, the sauce condiment that Argentineans serve with grilled meats and poultry.

In a book I bought in Buenos Aires a couple of years ago, “How Argentina Cooks” (“Asi Cocinan Los Argentinos”), there are five recipes:

Chimichurri, which is a blend of parsley, garlic, cumin, oregano, hot paprika or ground chili, plus diced tomato, scallion, and sweet red pepper; Garlic Chimichurri, a heavier hit of garlic and a few supporting spices, but no tomato or sweet pepper; Hot Chimichurri, a bigger hit of chili, no parsley, plus sugar; Tomato Chimichurri (like a Mexican pico di gallo salsa), and Parsley Chimichurri ... you get the picture. “Vinaigrette” in Argentinean cookery refers to an oil-and-acid marinade for meat, fish and poultry, not a dressing or sauce, but all chimichurri recipes are also based on “salad” oil, plus an acid, which can be red or white wine vinegar, cider vinegar, or lemon juice. Those two ingredients are their only commonality.

Indeed, at the Plaza Hotel last night, where the chef from the Alvear Palace hotel in Buenos Aires is cooking through next week, they served three different chimichurris, none of which matched the descriptions above. I liked best the one with finely shredded grated carrot, a good hit of hot pepper, and a dash of cumin. The other two – one with a few flecks of parsley, the other totally nondescript -- were too lightly seasoned and watery to have meaning as a condiment. I did, however, note that they were served, as a trio, to season our appetizer empanadas, for which Argentineans are famous, as well as to season the grilled steaks. I thought chimichurri was more typically served with grilled food, but I was wrong. It’s just on the table for you to use at will.

Chimichurri
Makes about 1 1/2 cups

These are my own proportions, devised from reading dozens of recipes and eating chimichurri many times. To it, you might add a small plum tomato, diced, or about 3 tablespoons finely minced sweet red pepper. I made it with white wine vinegar and used it on a thick piece of sea trout that I cooked in small amount of olive oil in a skillet on top of the stove.

1/2 cup finely chopped parsley
6 tablespoons olive oil
3 tablespoons red or white wine vinegar
3 tablespoons water
1/4 teaspoon ground hot pepper, or more to taste (can be hot paprika, Turkish pepper,
or any American chili, but not commercial chili powder, or use hot red pepper
flakes)
3/4 teaspoon ground cumin
4 large cloves garlic, smashed with the side of a knife, then finely minced (about 4
teaspoons)
3/4 teaspoon dried oregano
2 scallions, finely minced
1/2 teaspoon salt

Mix all the ingredients together in a small bowl.

You can serve the chimichurri immediately, or let it sit at room temperature for up to 12 hours. It should be consumed the same day it is made.