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05/26/2001 Archived Entry: "Corfu-style Greens"

This is one of the recipes I will be demonstrating on the cruise I am taking listeners on in early June. It’s a recipe from one of our ports, Corfu, which is considered the lushest of the Greek islands. It is profuse with wild greens that are eaten in many ways. Even the sheep graze on them and because of that the island’s lamb is said to be particularly flavorful. I can’t wait to taste it. We’ll be able to eat only one meal on Corfu, lunch, but I’m seeking out some of that lamb.

As for the greens, what with spinach at its seasonal height here in New York, I’ve been buying huge bags of it at the Grand Army Plaza Greenmarket in Brooklyn and eating Corfu-style at home. This is a wonderful recipe, adapted slightly from one in Diane Kochilas’ new book The Glorious Foods of Greece. On Corfu, one would apparently use wild fennel. Here, without the wild variety, a combination of fennel bulb and fennel seed is a good substitute.
It’s a pretty dish of greens. The onions and fennel are colored red with the tomato paste and paprika and are set against the vibrant green of greens not cooked too long. The first time I made it, I served it alongside scrambled eggs for a simple mid-week vegetarian meal. It would be excellent as part of a meze spread, too, or with grilled fish, or roasted or grilled chicken or any meat, but especially lamb.

Tsigarelli
(Sautéed Greens with Onions, Fennel and Tomato, Corfu-Style)

Serves 4

3 pounds fresh (weighed after heavy stems are removed), dark greens: can be spinach, dandelions, or a mix of greens, including those plus sorrel, chicory, borage, beet greens, Swiss chard, etc.
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 large onions, halved and sliced (about 3 cups sliced onion)
1 large fennel bulb, trimmed, quartered and thinly sliced (about 2 cups)
1 scant teaspoon fennel seeds, lightly crushed
2 large cloves garlic, minced
1/4 cup tomato paste
2 teaspoons sweet paprika
1 1/4 cups snipped fresh dill
Salt and hot red pepper to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil for garnish

Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil. Add the greens and cook until the water returns to a boil. Drain.

In a 12-inch skillet, combine the oil, onions, sliced fennel and fennel seeds. Cook over medium heat, tossing the mixture regularly, until the onions and fennel are soft and golden, about 8 minutes.

Add the garlic, the tomato paste, and the paprika. Stir well and cook with the onions for about 3 minutes.

Add the blanched greens and the dill. Mix very well and cook in what water clings to the spinach for about 5 minutes, or until the liquid has evaporated and the greens are fairly dry. About half way through the cooking, adjust the seasoning with salt and hot pepper.

Serve hot or warm with a drizzling of extra-virgin olive oil.