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10/02/2001 Archived Entry: "Peperonata: A Mess of Peppers"

It’s still sweet pepper season, until about the end of the month. They are red, yellow, and orange and were piled very high at the Greenmarket on Saturday. I haven’t noticed many purple peppers this year, but they turn dark green when cooked anyway, which is not so pretty.

As always, I couldn’t resist buying way too many peppers because of their color. A bowl of peppers can be more beautiful than a bouquet of flowers. To me. Knowing I can eat them, too, makes them even more appealing. Even kept at room temperature, they will last as long as flowers, too – about five days.

Actually, I find red peppers are the sweetest. Over and over again, I have bought both yellow and red from the same farmer and have found the red to be more flavorful. I buy the yellow and orange as accent colors for dishes like the following Peperonata – loosely translated, that means “a mess of peppers.” If I am simply roasting peppers, I prefer only red.

If I had to choose, I’d say Peperonata, which is peppers stewed with onions and tomatoes, is my favorite pepper dish. Fortunately, there is no reason to choose. Check out yesterday’s diary item for some other ideas for sweet peppers.


Peperonata
Makes about 1 quart

Serve Peperonata as an antipasto -- with bread to mop up the juices -- on toasted bread as a bruschetta topping, as a side dish to meat, poultry, fish or scrambled eggs, on macaroni as a sauce, or with cheese and other vegetables as a vegetarian meal.

3 medium onions (about 1 pound)
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
5 or 6 large sweet red peppers (or mixed red, yellow, and orange) (about 3 pounds)
5 or 6 plum tomatoes (about 1 pound), peeled if desired
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup finely chopped basil

Peel onions. Cut in half through the root end and slice thinly crosswise.

In a large pot with a cover, combine the onions and olive oil. Cook the onions over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until they are soft but not colored.

Meanwhile, prepare the peppers: Wash them. With a paring knife, cut them in half, then remove the cores, ribs and seeds. With a large knife, cut them lengthwise into 1/4-inch- to 1/2-inch-wide strips. You don’t have to be exact.

By the time the peppers are prepared, the onions should be soft. Add the peppers and mix well with the onions. Cook the peppers while preparing the tomatoes, about 5 minutes or so, stirring them a couple of times.

With the tip of a paring knife, cut out tomato cores. Cut tomatoes in half lengthwise, then each half again lengthwise, then into 6 to 8 pieces crosswise.

Add the tomatoes to the onions and peppers. Season with salt. Cover the pot and let simmer at a perky pace for about 20 minutes, stirring a couple of times with a wooden spoon.

When done, the peppers should be wilted but still with a tiny snap. Taste to check. They'll continue to soften as they cool.

If necessary, because there is too much liquid, uncover the pot for the second half of the cooking time. The peperonata should not be too soupy. The liquid should have a saucy consistency.

Stir in basil for last 2 or 3 minutes of cooking. Season to taste with freshly ground pepper – a few turns of the peppermill should be enough.

Serve hot, at room temperature, or cool, but not cold.

Note: It is not necessary to peel the tomatoes for this recipe – that is, if you don’t mind tomato skins. Some people feel they are unsightly or indigestible. To peel a tomato, place in boiling water for 60 seconds. Remove and let cool enough to handle. Cut a slit in skin near core. Skin should pull right off. If it doesn't, forget it and don't worry about it.