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10/25/2001 Archived Entry: "Wine Buy: Ca’ del Solo Big House White"

Legendary winemaker Randall Grahm of Bonny Doon Vinyard is known for his crazy sense of humor. His levity is apparent even before you open a bottle of his newest white wine, Ca’ del Solo Big House White. In this case, “Big House” refers to THE big house … yes, as in prison. The label bears a funny cartoon of a man trying to escape from jail, presumably carrying a bottle of this unfunny wine. That is to say the jest ends as soon as you pour this wine and realize that this five-grape blend mean business.

The five grapes in this blend are Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, Pinot Gris, and Malvasia Bianca. This sounds like a hodgepodge they blend very well into a white wine with depth of flavor and great charm. This combination, heavy on Alsace grapes, is very floral and fruity and easy to drink. Sean and I found both pears and almonds on the nose. It has a lush mouthfeel, not crisp, until you get to the finish, which has a little back bite and the taste of grapefruit.

I’d happily drink it as an aperitif with nothing but nuts, or with a buttery or creamy seafood dish, with ham or roast pork, or with chicken salad or a seafood salad. I’d love it with something like a grilled cheese sandwich made with Gruyere, or the French grilled ham and cheese sandwich, Croque Monsieur. It should be a good fondue wine.

At around $12.99 a bottle, this week’s Wine Buy is not exactly a steal, if you’ll pardon the pun, but you certainly get your money’s worth.