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11/21/2001 Archived Entry: "Bistro Jeanty - Yountville, CA"

Following is another of Sean’s reviews from our trip to Napa Valley. I had been to Bistro Jeanty before and enjoyed it more this time. Still, my first visit, though slightly disappointing, perhaps only because of the build-up I’d gotten from locals who regard it as a very special place, was good enough to make me want to return. My only remaining quibble – and something Sean does not mention in his review – is that the extensive wine list is very expensive for a bistro. There were just a handful of bottles under $30.

Gentile Jeanty
By SEAN BEAUCHAMP BRADY

I immediately knew where I wanted to go for lunch our first day in Napa Valley as soon as KC, our fabulous guide at the Mondavi Winery, mentioned the word cassoulet.

Sitting at a communal farm table with other diners just a fiselle-width away, we noshed on airy, crusty French bread and butter so good that you remember why margarine is the enemy. Checkered curtains blew in and out of the open windows on this warm, breezy California afternoon. A collection of ceramic water pitchers used to dilute pastis, the anise-flavored drink of Van Gogh, sit on a high shelf. This place is less contrived and more on target than many of the cookie cutter bistros in New York.

The Croutons de Foie Blond ($9.50), a trio of toasts spread with a substantial amount of smooth duck paté, was served with a tender pear poached in port. The Pieds de Cochon et Haricots Verts ($8.50), cubes of aspic embalmed, boneless pigs feet meat garnished with a salad of slim green beans, was too gelatinous, but savory nonetheless. The Terrine de Lapin ($9) was two slabs of nicely fatty, rustic rabbit terrine accompanied by Dijon mustard and some cornichons, baby pickles.

The main courses were quite large. The Cote de Porc ($17.50), a well-cooked, reasonably moist pork chop sat on a generous bed of creamy mashed potatoes and buttery spinach. The giant crock of hearty Cassoulet ($19.50) was all I hoped it would be. The French grandmother’s version of “franks and beans,” it was filled with garlic sausage, creamy white beans and tender duck confit all gratiné with golden breadcrumbs. The Rognons de Veau au Poivre Vert ($18.50) was a disappointing dish of beef kidneys covered with a green peppercorn cream sauce. Bland and uninspired, it’s not a dish I’d recommended, especially when there seem to be so many other good things on the menu.

We forced ourselves to try dessert. Arthur said we had to. It was our duty. The Riz au Lait ($6.50) was an unremarkable rice pudding served in a tall glass. It had great texture but lacked distinct flavor. It was surpassed, however, by the Crème Galcée ($5.50) a scoop of vanilla ice cream served with a delicate chocolate sauce and a shot of Armangnac ($8.75), a brandy from the southwest of France, for pouring over the sundae. The combination was heaven and each creamy bite melted into the next.

Bistro Jeanty
6510 Washington Street
Yountville, CA 94599
(707) 944-0103