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11/26/2001 Archived Entry: "Don Giovanni - Napa, CA"

Here's another review of a Napa Valley restaurant written by my assistant, Sean Brady. We don't agree on everything. We have generational differences. But I trust him totally on food. Well, almost totally. We certainly have the same opionion about Don Giovanni. It is terrific. One reason we like it better than our other Napa restaurant experiences, is that it isn't just for tourists. It attracts a local and diverse crowd -- everyone from winemakers and vineyard owners to the trades people who service the valley. Perhaps that is because it is at the edge of the city of Napa, which has a population of about 60,000. It is not "up valley," where the expensive spas, galleries and shops are.

Naples in Napa
By SEAN BEAUCHAMP BRADY

“A dessert with 1500 calories a serving?” I asked myself after reading the latest fax to stream into the office. Michael Bauer, the food editor of the San Francisco Chronicle, had just sent us a recipe for brioche bread pudding from his favorite Napa Valley restaurant and each serving contained over 1500 calories. Not really being a “counting the points” kind of guy, I normally wouldn’t flinch when faced with the prospect of a super-rich dessert. But 1500 calories a serving is shocking. Still, when Michael offered to take Arthur and me to the restaurant for dinner one evening while in Napa, I couldn’t resist.

Muted stucco and warm lighting gave an antique feel to the industrial building right on Route 29, the main road of the valley, at the edge of the city of Napa itself. We were greeted by the cat before we even spotted our host. If the cat snubs you in a moment of feline snobbery, you can be assured that Giovanni Scala will welcome you with, literally, open arms and a broad smile. We were swiftly escorted to our plush leather banquette by Giovanni. A few minutes later, Donna, his wife and the chef, stepped out of the kitchen to greet us.

The Fritto Misto ($9.75) rose from the plate like Vesuvius. A selection of battered vegetables and seafood were accompanied by a ramekin of Napa’s ubiquitous aioli, apparently the valley’s answer to ranch salad dressing. Another antipasti, Rapini alla Torrese ($7.95), was proof that the very best ingredients contribute most to a winning dish – a perfect balance of sautéed broccoli rabe, toasted garlic, marinated olives, and buffalo-milk mozzarella. The Pizza Margherita, with its thin crust and soggy center, screamed Naples, which is where Giovanni was born.

A course of Paccheri ($15.95) was brought to the table and we all gasped. Each huge tube of pasta was bathed in rich tomato ragu spotted with creamy ricotta cheese. The hearty pasta was topped with two braised baby back ribs that had cooked in and flavored the sauce. The meat was so tender it hung from the bones. Arthur, the expert on Neapolitan food, was in heaven, as were we all.

The Braised Lamb Shank ($17.95) was served over a bed of large, creamy, white cannellini beans, which showed no resemblance to the hard, undercooked beans most restaurants are serving these days. The Pan Roasted Sea Bass ($18.75) was cooked beautifully, sweet and moist. The most curious plate on the table was the small crock of Brussels Spouts ($4) cooked with capers in brown butter and sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. We decided that these should be served to anyone who doesn’t normally like Brussels spouts. It’s seems funny to say this, but Don Giovanni is actually famous for its Brussels sprouts.

We had no room for dessert, but just to be polite we tried everything. I had previously decided that I would have just one small-ish bite of the famed bread pudding when it arrived.

The Pomegranate Sorbetto ($6.50), just as common as aioli in Napa these days, was wonderful. It was simultaneously sweet and tangy. It was a light desert, perfect after the huge meal we had eaten. It was served with a fudgey chocolate cookie which provided a rich contrast to the fruit’s sharpness. The Apple Rustico ($7.25) was another dessert highlight. Still no sign of the pudding.

“Do you have bread pudding this evening?” I sheepishly inquired. I tried not to show my disappointment. Instead, I consoled myself with a large spoonful of the excellent sorbet and thought, “when in Napa…”

Don Giovanni
4110 St. Helena Highway (Route 29)
Napa, CA 94558
(707) 224-3300