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04/25/2002 Archived Entry: "Wine Buy: Aglianico del Taburno"

From Carol Berman, Food Talk sommelier:

Fidelis is the name of the wine. Aglianico del Taburno is the name of the grape. Aglianico, a varietal of ancient Greek origin, is grown all over southern Italy. This one is from Taburno, a mountain growing area in Benevento, the province of Campania just north and east of Naples. Cantina del Taburno is the name of the producer.

You’ll find all those bold faced names on the label of this smooth, muscular, beefy red wine. Although made predominantly of Aglianico, it has small percentages of both Merlot and Sangiovese, which soften the Aglianico. So, although Fidelis has amazing power and depth packed in every sip – the aromas of tobacco and leather come to mind -- it also has seductive fruit flavors and some spiciness in the aroma.

The wines of Campania are really terrific, and very interesting. White wine grapes include Greco di Tufo, Falanghina and one of my favorites, Fiano, which has the aroma of hazelnuts. Aglianico grapes grown around Mt. Vesuvius are also used to make Taurasi, which is considered one of the most important red wines of the Italian south. This region is a veritable treasure chest of gems awaiting discovery.

The 1999 Fidelis is a great value at approximately $11.99 a bottle, although I have seen it for as little as $9.99. It is a Marc de Grazia import, distributed by Michael Skurnik Wines, NY.