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06/17/2002 Archived Entry: "E-Mail Questions"

E-mail, I get e-mail, to paraphrase the song from the old Perry Como TV show.

Much of the mail asks me to repeat information that was on my Food Talk program. Some of it asks new questions that should be asked on the radio. I am happy to provide answers to the first type of question. In part, this website’s function is to back-up my program with, for instance, the recipes we talk about on the radio. The second type of question is a problem. I will not, for instance, recommend a restaurant through email. Recommending restaurants takes a bit of psychology and I need the give and take of a phone conversation to get the feel of the person asking for the referral.

Here are a few questions and answers you may have missed on my program, or, in any case, would like to see in writing.

Q. I vaguely remember you mentioning several places to have a brunch-like tea in NYC. We're thinking of it for a bridal shower. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

A. Although I get asked about brunch and about tea all the time, I not only don’t recall answering this question, but until I did a little investigating just today, I wouldn’t have believed there is an answer. To me, brunch is brunch, and it is generally served in the late morning, or starting at noon, and until 3 or 4 o’clock in the afternoon. Tea is tea and it is served at tea time, which, following the British model, is at about 4 o’clock. As you can see, brunch-like tea doesn’t make sense.

That said, I think a classic English afternoon tea is a wonderful idea for a bridal shower. Contrary to popular parlance in America, this is not so-called High Tea. High Tea is an evening meal and it is not “high” at all. Indeed, it is a country habit, or working class meal taken late in the day – like supper – and it can substantial or meager. My favorite example is from the movie “Shirley Valentine,” in which Shirley offers her husband a High Tea of fried eggs, toast, and a cup of tea when he comes home from work. It represents the hum-drum nature of her life and their relationship. I know that is not what you want for your bridal shower.

What Americans like to call High Tea because it sounds grand is called Afternoon Tea or Cream Tea or just Tea by Brits. In general, it consists of “tea sandwiches,” which are tiny sandwiches called “finger sandwiches” on crustless soft bread (it can be white, it can be whole wheat). They are filled with cucumber and butter, or watercress and cheese, or egg salad, or chicken salad. You get the picture. After the sandwiches, one digs into the sweets, which can be scones with jam and/or preserves and double cream or whipped cream (hence “Cream Tea”), pastries, cookies (the Brits call them biscuits), etc. These are often presented on a three-tiered platter, and everything is downed with cups of tea, of course.

My favorite places for tea include The Mark Hotel, 25 E. 77th St., between Fifth and Madison Aves.; (212) 879-1864. For a bridal shower, you might want to reserve a private room, which, I would think, costs plenty. If you take tea in the restaurant, however, the price is as usual -- $23 a person for tea and coffee service, sandwiches and sweets, plus 20 percent for service and the usual 8.25 percent for tax. If you are a group of only 20 or so, you can be set up in one section of the room with tables for four.

Another wonderful place for tea is Lady Mendl’s Tea Room in the Inn at Irving Place, 56 Irving Place, between 17th and 18th Sts.; (212) 533-4466. I suppose if you wanted a brunch-tea this would be the place as they do start serving tea on Saturday and Sunday at 12:30 p.m. Wednesday through Friday, hours are flexible. If you have a group, you can make special arrangements. Private seatings are available with a guarantee of 10, 18 and 30 people. The offerings are somehwhat more substantial than at the Mark, but the price is much higher: $45 a person, plus the aforementioned percentages of tip and tax.

Q. Several days ago on your radio show you mentioned a special brand of hot dogs selling for over $10.00 a pound. I can’t remember the brand or where to get them. Please help us as we wish to order some of them. Thank you very much.

A. Lobel’s, a butcher shop on the Upper East Side of Manhattan sells their hot dogs at $14.98 a pound. Lobel’s is at 1096 Madison Avenue and their phone is (212) 737-1372. In a hot dog tasting for his newsletter, The Rosengarten Report, David Rosengarten names them first place in the category of “N.Y.–Chicago dog.” You can subscribe to David’s exhaustive, fully-packed newsletter by calling toll-free (866) 321-7654.

Q. What was the name of that inexpensive mandolin you mentioned the other day? Where can I buy one?

A. I love my little plastic “Benriner” mandolin. It’s totally affordable and does the job well. You can easily find them in most cookware stores (call ahead). I know Broadway Panhandler at 477 Broome St. in Soho sells them for $29.95 for the small size, $46.95 for the larger model. Their phone number is (212) 966-3434. If you live in New Jersey, Chef Central at 240 North State Route 17 in Paramus also caries the small size for $29.99. Their phone number is (201) 576-0100.