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The Food Maven Diary
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11/19/2006 Archived Entry: "My Restaurant List (Cheap Lunch) for Cecilia"
My friend and business partner (Cook at Seliano Culinary Vacations and our new Italian-American Roots Tours) is coming to visit New York and several other stateside places. She’s arriving tomorrow night with what I have been calling her “entourage,” a group befitting a baronessa I feel. She’s coming with her son, Massimino, and his wife, Barbara, two highly valued women from the staff of her farm-inn (agriturismo), Eugenia and Veliana, and Eugenia’s 16-year-old son, Simone. This is not to mention my friend and hers, Nicolas Claes, who lives at Tenuta Seliano and already arrived two days ago. They are all staying in my apartment, which is large, but not really large enough for all these people. To accommodate everyone, I have turned the dining room into a dormitory, I have moved the dining table into the library … and I won’t bore you with all the other rearrangements of furniture and allocation of rooms.
Unfortunately, or more likely fortunately, I won’t be here the first week that they are all here. I am leaving for Italy tomorrow, for a winery and olive oil mill tour of Puglia. It’s research for my next book, “The Big Book of Southern Italian Food & Wine.” Then, when I return, they will all be away for a few days in Newport, Rhode Island, Boston … again, I won’t bore you with their travel details. The last week of their trip we will all be together here in Brooklyn, and I am not sure where we will all sleep. We’ll figure it out. Now, Cecilia knows her way around New York City, but she asked me to leave her a list of inexpensive places to eat lunch, for when she and the entourage are out and about. She thinks she’ll be eating dinner at home most nights, especially since Eugenia is a fabulous cook, Veliana basically eats nothing but pasta, and Massimino and Barbara love nothing better than to stay in my apartment, watch American TV, and eat lightly. Besides that both of them are always watching their weight, Barbara’s work is translating American TV programs and movies into Italian, for dubbing and subtitles. So, she can rationalize her TV watching as work. In any case, I have composed the following list for their day-time eating pleasure, on the cheap in Manhattan, plus some places on Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn because there’s wonderful shopping there, and Cecilia likes nothing better than to look through antique shops, of which there are many on Atlantic Avenue. Since I did all this work for her (and the entourage), I thought it would be well to share it with you. The locations are ones I know she is likely to get to. Here it goes. Near or On Union Square (Filene’s Basement, Greenmarket) CITY BAKERY, 3 W. 18th St., between Fifth and Sixth Aves, 212-366-1414 Perhaps the best croissant in New York (Cecilia loves croissants), divine pastries, and a self-serve buffet that is far above the quality of the usual Korean grocery/salad bar. REPUBLIC NOODLES, 37 Union Sq. W, between 16th and 17th Sts.; 212-627-7172 Very good Asian noodles and noodle soups at very reasonable price. The “cool” atmosphere of communal tables, concrete floors – industrial look – creates noise, but it’s a small price to pay for the quality/value of the food. Outdoor seating when weather permits. WHOLE FOODS (supermarket), 14th St. (Union Square South), opposite Union Square Self- service salad and prepared food buffet with tables to enjoy an inexpensive lunch. Near Sixth Avenue and 18th St. (Bed, Bath and Beyond, Filene’s Basement, ABC Carpet and Home Furnishings, and other shops) SEE Union Square PETITE ABEILLE, 107 E. 18th St., near Sixth Ave.; 212 604-9350 Good soups, sandwiches, and quiche. Self-service in a small, some might say cramped store with a few tables and a window counter with stools. Grand Central Terminal (because it is a central location) FOOD COURT on the lower level There are many food stalls with Mexican, Asian, American items, plus a branch of Junior’s, the Brooklyn restaurant, which has excellent, famous cheesecake, as well as good pastrami, hamburgers, and other sandwiches and items appropriate for lunch. Public seating is available all around the court, where you can eat foods bought at any of the stalls. GRAND CENTRAL OYSTER BAR, also on the lower level This famous seafood restaurant has high prices at the tables, but at the large counter and the counter by the oyster bar itself, you can have a bowl of excellent New England style (creamy) clam chowder, or Manhattan (tomato-based) chowder, or one of the famous Pan Roasts – oysters (my preference) cooked in a creamy sauce spiked with ketchup-like chili sauce and Worcestershire. Or, you can order clams or oysters on the half shell. Lower East Side (good walking with hip shops for clothing and home furnishings), where the immigrant Jews and Italians used to live KATZ’S DELICATESSEN, 205 E. Houston St., corner of Ludlow St.; 212 254-2246 The only Jewish delicatessen (not kosher) left in the city where you can consistently get sublime pastrami and excellent corned beef. Make sure to ask for “juicy.” If you ask for lean or extra lean, you won’t get the real deal. Also check out the excellent hot dogs, steak fries, and knublewurst, a garlicky sausage that is impossible to find elsewhere.
BEREKET, 187 East Houston St., corner of Orchard St.; 212-475-7700 A Turkish kebab house with fine-enough food and unbeatable prices. Because it is open all night, and has student and hipster friendly prices, it is crowded way into the night, but fairly empty at midday. Greenwich Village (good walking neighborhood for old New York streets, and good shops) PEARL OYSTER BAR, 18 Cornelia St., between Bleecker & W. 4th Sts., 212-691-8211 It isn’t cheap, but it is very, very good. Sometimes I think it is the only perfect restaurant in Manhattan. I have never been disappointed here. I order the fried oyster sandwich, or a lobster roll, or chowder. There are many other items, all excellent. Both counter and table seating. PICCOLO ANGOLO, 621 Hudson St., at Jane St., 212-229-9177. Very good pasta and a few antipasti and secondi (main courses) at astoundingly low prices for Manhattan. Tiny and tight, there is often a line to get in at dinner time. Actually, no lunch is served, but, Cecilia, you may still find it handy if you stay in the Village late to look at all the antique stores on Bleecker St., near this restaurant. Food Stores: MURRAY’S CHEESE, 257 Bleecker St., corner Cornelia St.; 212-243-3289 Best cheese shop in the city. FAICCO’S PORK STORE, 260 Bleecker St., next door to Murray’s; 212-243-1974 Wonderful Italian grocery with excellent pork products Atlantic Avenue, Brooklyn (for the boutiques, proximity to the Brooklyn Heights Promenade, and the antique shops) DOWNTOWN ATLANTIC, 364 Atlantic Ave., bet. Bond & Hoyt Sts, 718-852-9945 Very good food, from sandwiches and burgers up to stylish main courses, at fair prices, and with friendly service. The restored Victorian double storefront has charm. The bakery produces some of the best cupcakes, muffins, tarts, and cakes in the city. These are available in the restaurant, or to take home from the retail cases near the front door. Good for lunch, but also just for coffee and cake. Dinner is served, too. Sunday brunch, with live jazz, is exceptional. WATERFRONT ALE HOUSE, 155 Atlantic Ave., bet. Clinton and Henry Sts., 718-522-3794 I come here mainly for the burgers. There are other temptations -- good chili, for instance – but I am never disappointed by the burgers while I am often disappointed if I order something else – like the merely okay ribs. For dessert, they have a good ice cream sundae. I also love the pubby atmosphere, the great beer list, the well-made cocktails, and the friendly service. Food Stores (all on the same block of Atlantic Avenue) SAHADI’S, 187 Atlantic Ave., between Clinton and Court Sts.; 718-624-4550 Big Middle Eastern market. I go here specifically for dried fruits and nuts, a great selection of olives and feta cheese, and some spices. I don’t care much for the prepared foods, but they’re okay. Many wonderful grocery items, however, from the Middle East and elsewhere. ORIENTAL PASTRY, directly across the street from Sahadi’s Wonderful pastries and other Middle Eastern specialties. A small Sahadi, but with their own marvelous pastry. NEAR EAST BAKERY, a few doors down from Sahadi’s Both savory and sweet pastries. Try a spinach or meat pie (like a baked calzone) to eat out of hand, on the spot. The pastries are first rate. COOK’S COMPANION, 197 Altantic Ave., between Clinton and Court Sts.; 718-852-6901, a few doors down from Sahadi Great cookware store
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