The Food Maven Diary
[Archives]

[Previous Entry] [Diary Home] [Next Entry]

05/08/2007 Archived Entry: "Amalfi Coast Travel Links"

As you all have to know, I spend a lot of time in southern Italy these days, which means everywhere from Rome to the heel (Puglia) and toe (Calabria) of the boot, plus Sicily, Campania, Basilicata, and Molise.

I conduct at least four Cook at Seliano sessions a year on my friend and partner Baronessa Cecilia Bellelli Baratta’s farm-inn, Azienda Seliano (the name refers to the Sele river that runs through the plain), where the water buffalo (that are used to make mozzarella) roam, and where we visit, right down the road, three of the most perfectly preserved ancient Greek temples in the world. The place is Paestum. It is famous for mozzarella di bufala ,and for those temples, and it is just 30 minutes south of the Amalfi Coast.

Last year, we did our first Italian-American Roots Tour, where we started on Cecilia’s farm and then took our guests on a trip through Puglia and Basilicata. Next year, we hope to repeat the idea, this time going through Calabria to the east coast of Sicily – Taormina, Catania, Siracusa, Modica, Ragusa, Noto. (The whole island of Sicily is way too large and full of things to see, do, and eat to encompass in one trip). We haven’t set a date yet. It certainly won’t be until the fall of 2008. If you have any interest in this, write to me at mavensmail@aol.com.

And I am writing a new book, “The Big Book of Southern Italian Food & Wine,” the research for which keeps me plenty occupied between Cook at Seliano sessions, plus some.

Actually, I like to think of Cook at Seliano as Cucina e Cultura, Cooking and Culture, as opposed to the typical cooking school program where you spend every day in the kitchen. We cook for about half of three days, with other activities filling in the remainder of the day. But we also make two full day excursions. This year, for instance, besides visiting the temples of Paestum, we have been visiting aristocratic homes, both ancient ruins and currently lived in houses. We have been going to a pasta factory in Gragnano, a town near Sorrento famous for pasta making. We visit the medieval center of Salerno, which, by the way, has great shopping – no chain stores. We visit Sorrento. We have an elegant lunch in the countryside. We laugh a lot.

If you would like to join me in Italy, please go to the Cook at Seliano section of this site. Besides our set sessions, I can arrange customized sessions for groups of at least eight. However, next year, 2008, I will not be able to do any Italian travel until September. I will be busy at home finishing “The Big Book …,” testing recipes with American ingredients, measurements, and equipment, and writing like crazy. Hence, our first Cook at Seliano session in 2008 is scheduled for October 12, right after the Jewish High Holy Days.

The following items – places to stay in Ravello on the Amalfi Coast, cooking lessons in Ravello, an excellent and well-priced driver on the Amalfi Coast, a hotel and two restaurants in Naples -- will eventually be posted permanently on this site, either in Italian Travel Links, or in the Restaurant Guide to Italy, which are both frankly pretty sketchy at this point. For now, however, because we are rebuilding the site in general, they will be archived here.

RAVELLO
Rooms with Views in Ravello
Punta Civita is an elegant bed and breakfast on the winding mountain road between the town of Amalfi and the town of Ravello. The view from here is spectacular and every room, all simply but beautifully decorated with vintage furniture, has a sea view, access to a terrace, a private bathroom with shower or bath, air conditioning, heating, and a TV. One room even has a whirlpool bath. Another has a shower with multiple sprays. The only downside is that you have to climb 30 steps to get from the rooms to the main entrance. Listen, I can see not budging from the property for days – relaxing, reading, napping -- although you will most likely want to go out and explore, or at least go out for dinner. There is a public bus that goes up the hill to Ravello or down the hill to Amalfi, both in about only 10 minutes.

To top it off, Punta Civita is amazingly inexpensive at 110 euros for a double room, slightly less off season. (There is a five euro extra charge for parking, if you have a car.) Breakfast is in a homey, but large kitchen-dining room or served on the terrace with views of Atrani and the sea. Ask for Roberto Lucibello. He’s the very charming and accommodating owner and he speaks perfect English. Tell Roberto that Schwartz sent you.

House for Rent in Ravello
Al Borgo Torello is a recently restored house facing the sea in a small sub-section of Ravello called Torello, for its small tower (torre). It has four bedrooms, sleeping at least eight, although one room has a trundle bed that would be great for two children – a total of 10. Two rooms have sea views. One has a balcony, too. All have flat-panel TVs, air-conditioning, beautiful bathrooms with showers, contemporary furniture, very comfortable beds, and nice art. The beautiful and large kitchen is well-equipped, with pots, pans, an espresso machine, oven and stove, plus flatware and dishes for 10. It even has a breakfast table that seats six. The dining area, also with a sea view and a small balcony, has a table that expands to seat 10.

The interior is brand new, spotless, and beautifully decorated with sea blue ceramic tile floors. Perhaps best of all, there is a large garden terrace overlooking the sea and with a stone barbecue and oven (under construction as of my visit in March). This is the perfect place for four couples to rent, or a family group. As of now, it is available only on a weekly basis only – 2,800 euros a week for 10 people, 2,600 euros a week for eight people, which includes bath and bed linens, electricity, even a weekly visit from a maid.

The house is not in the center of Ravello, but a series of staircases takes you to the main square, where you will find the Duomo and the Villa Rufolo gardens (5 euro entry), as well as paths that lead to all the other sections of Ravello. There are 32 ancient stone steps from the road to the door of the house (there is parking on the street), and three of the four rooms are up one flight of stairs.

For more information, contact my friend Chiara Lima, who is the property manager. Her website is MammaAgata.com . You can contact her through the website, using her email address, info@mammaagata.com.

Cooking in Ravello
Mamma Agata is Chiara’s mother, a woman my age, and she gives private demonstration cooking lessons in her home in Ravello, followed by a lunch of the dishes she’s cooked. Her new kitchen, beautifully tiled and accessorized, and with a view of the sea, is one of my favorite places on earth. No joke. No exaggeration. Agata doesn’t speak English, but Chiara is fluent and stands by to translate. This only means that you get the company of two fabulous women at once.

You can find out more about Agata’s classes by going to Mamma Agata, a Hidden Treasure.

If you don’t care to cook with Agata, but would love to eat her food, she also prepares delicious meals on her terrace overlooking the sea, and in her dining room should weather force you indoors. This is very expensive for just two, but not so for, say, a group of six or eight. You can learn more about that on the web site, too.

All of Agata’s food is made with products raised or grown on the family’s terraced property, stepping down from and in view of the dining terrace. Agata’s husband, Salvatore, Chiara’s father, tends the vegetable gardens, the fruit trees, and raises the chickens and rabbits. Meanwhile, Gennaro, Chiara’s husband, is both a master sommelier and cheese expert, and he is always very happy to plan tastings of both.

Make sure to say Schwartz sent you. The Lima family is like my own family. Indeed, Chiara’s adorable six-year-old son, Mario, calls me Zio Arturo, Uncle Arthur.

A Driver for the Amalfi Coast
Claudio Lucibello has been my wonderful driver on the Amalfi Coast. I can’t recommend him highly enough: He is careful and cautious, which you have to be on these winding roads. He speaks enough English to communicate well, although don’t count on him being an English-fluent guide. He is a classy man, and handsome and well-dressed to boot. As a native of Ravello, he knows every inch of these roads. Whatever his price quote, it will likely be less than other drivers. His white taxi is spacious and comfortable, with plenty of room for those of you who travel with too many suitcases. Check out his website. Contact him through the following email, or call. You will need to reserve him ahead of your trip as he is very popular. He will work locally, but is also available to take you off the costiera Amalfitana to, for instance, Pompeii, Paestum, Naples, etc.
Tel. 089-873063
Cell: 339-7028395 and 333-4527057
E-mail: info@amalficoastcarservice.it