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12/06/2007 Archived Entry: "Happy Chanukah"

Happy Chanukah, the holiday that gives you an excuse to eat fried foods.

Latkes, also known as potato pancakes, are the Eastern European – the Ashkenazic – expression of Chanukah. Soofganiyot, which are jelly doughnuts, are the Sephardic tradition. Roman Jews, however, may eat batter-fried salt cod, baccala, and, truly, any fried food commemorates the story of Chanukah very well.

You see, it’s all about oil, olive oil specifically, which was the kind of oil used in the eternal lamp hanging over the altar in the temple desecrated by the Greek-Syrians. It was olive oil that the Macabees needed to replace when they went to rededicate the temple. It was the fact that one day’s worth of olive oil lasted eight days, until more could be acquired, that constitutes the “miracle of the oil,” which is why Chanukah is called The Festival of Light, and why we light a menorah with eight candles (or oil lamps) every night of the eight nights of Chanukah.. Tonight is but the first.

It is no coincidence that light also plays a major role in the Christian December celebration, Christmas. On the secular level, think lighted Christmas trees, house decorations, and, in the colonial American, restrained Protestant manner, a candle in every window. On the religious level, light, in the form of a bright, guiding star, indicated to the three wise men (or kings) where the Christ child was being born.

December is the darkest month. We apparently have a human need to create light during the short days of December.

I could go on and on about this subject – the mythology, the overlapping religious customs that fill human needs -- and I will somewhat this Saturday when I speak at the Brooklyn Public Library, the main branch, at 4 p.m. The subject is holiday foods, and I’ll tackle those I know best, Jewish, Southern Italian, and American. There’s a lot more to holiday food than the recipes.

Meanwhile, there are two latke recipes on this website, a traditional fried potato pancake, and another, No-Fry Latkes, which may be healthier-than-thou but are not, truth be told, in the true greasy spirit of Chanukah.

I like my hot potato pancakes with cold applesauce. It’s a tart and temperature counterpoint. On the cover of my new book, however, you’ll see them featured – my very own homemade – with sour cream. Either way …

Happy Chanukah!