(in no particular order)

Da Dora is a tiny, unprepossessing restaurant on a tiny street off the main street that runs behind the Villa Communale, Naples biggest park, which itself runs along the sea. But there’s no need to search your map. Every cab driver knows Da Dora. Every concierge knows Da Dora. It has the reputation of having the most impeccable fish in the city. Without pretensions.

Since there are so few tables, it’s good to make a reservation. They are open for both lunch and dinner. At both meals, you will not only eat extremely well, you may well be entertained by a postegiatore, a traveling musician who plays guitar and sings Neapolitan songs. Your waiter is likely to be Tony, who speaks some English because he was once posted at an American base in Antarctica. Over his desk was a map of the U.S. There was not much to do in Antarctica. He memorized the map, which is how he knows all the state capitols and likes to quiz American guests to show off: “How many state capitols, and which, start with the same initial as the name of their state?” That’s a typical Tony question.

What to eat? Among the antipasti you may want to try new-born fish, neonati, or fragaglie as they are called in Neapolitan dialect, miniscule white things with a faint flavor of the sea, either sautéed with a whiff of garlic in olive oil, or fried into little pancakes, fritelle. All the fried things are wonderful, as they frequently are in Naples. You should move on to the pasta with mixed shellfish – linguine Dora – which is with whatever was best in the market that day. Or simply order spaghetti with clams. Remember that Neapolitans prefer their pasta (in this dish anyway) cooked much firmer than you are probably accustomed to. Ask for it a little more cooked, if you don’t want super-firm pasta.

If you want to eat more, have simple grilled fish. If you are feeling splurgy, take a lobster. Or have the lobster with linguine.

I’d save room for a gelato taken while walking around nearby Chiaia, the fancy shopping district, after lunch. You will certainly need a walk. Oh yes, drink Falanghina, the crisp, mineraly white wine that Neapolitans favor with fish.

And tell them that Schwartz and Baronessa Bellelli Baratta sent you. We often bring our groups here.
Via Ferdinando Palasciano, 28/30 (a block off Riviera di Chiaia)
Tel: 081-680-519, also 081-660-762

Europeo di Mattozzi is one of Naples’ most beloved restaurants. Businessmen from the nearby financial center of the city frequent it at lunch. You’ll see families and couples in the evening. Only lately, however, through a glowing piece in Travel & Leisure magazine, has it become known to the few tourists who go to Naples. The homey standards of the Neapolitan table are all prepared very well, with the best ingredients. The old-time atmosphere, with copper cookware hanging on one wall, a hodgepodge of mostly mediocre paintings hanging on another, and some ceramics hanging on yet another, make it very much of its place.

The restaurant has been owned by the Mattozzi family for more than 100 years. Currently, you are likely to be greeted by the very welcoming smile of Alfonso Mattozzi, although his equally hospitable daughter, Fabiana, is often present as well. If you haven’t eaten your fill of mozzarella di bufala by the time you get here, then by all means order it as an antipasto. You’ll get a large cheese that is easily split by two or three, although it takes only one Neapolitan to finish it off. Any of the fried items are stupendi, including fried zucchini flowers (in season), fried neonati, newborn fish, also called fragaglie in Neapolitan dialect, or maybe a mixed fish fry, or just fried calamari (a revelation if you have only eaten our tasteless squid). Seafood salad, insalata di mare will also shock you with its sea flavor. The minestra, meaning what I like to call “the pasta and” first courses, are particularly good here – pasta and potatoes, pasta and beans, pasta and lentils, pasta and squash. The pizza is outstanding. The grilled fish are a good choice for a main course -- by no means obligatory if you have filled up on antipasti and pasta -- but follow the lead of Signore Mattozzi. He recommends only what’s best that day. Of course, tell him Arturo Schwartz sent you.
Via Campodisola Marchese, 4 (near Piazza Bovio, also called Piazza Borsa) tel: 081-552-1323

La Cantinella: Fancy (the toilets have automated flushing) and expensive, with a street-level view of the bay from window tables. The food is mostly traditional Neapolitan with touches of "Continental" but beautifully prepared and served. My friend Bruno DeRosa, who lives in Naples, tells me that they lately are doing more stylish food - after the chef and owner recently visited New York and cooked at Tony May's San Domenico. Some Neapolitans consider this the best restaurant -- real restaurant -- in the city. It is, indeed, used much for business at lunch, but it is usually less busy at dinner. Great cakes and desserts are made by the chef. (I'm known here by both the owner and chef. You could drop my name, not that it will get you anything extra. ) Expensive.
    Via Cuma 42 (Via Cuma is an extension of Via Partenope, theLungomare or main sea-side street, but the entrance to the restaurant is on the side street); tel. (081) 764-8769. Closed Sundays.