The main attraction of the Piazza Farnese is the Palazzo Farnese, which now houses the French embassy. It is well worth a visit during the day and at night. The palazzo’s exterior decorations are by Michelangelo, and the square also sports two huge stone basins from the baths of Caracalla. At night, the French are considerate enough to illuminate the second floor interior murals so you can see them from the piazza. Note that the Piazza Farnese is right off Via Giulia, an ancient and picturesque street that has some of the finest antique stores in the city.

Bar Farnese
Piazza Farnese, 106
Tel./fax 06.68.80.2125

An elegant bar where both Romans and tourists take their morning cappuccino and cornetti on tables set facing the Palazzo Farnese. In the afternoon as well, its a good place to sit, have coffee, and a decent if not exciting tramezzino or an aperitivo. For a better sandwich go next door to:

Le Teste Matte (The Crazy Heads)
Via Dei Baullari, 113
Tel. 06.686-9548

This small, chic bar is at the Campo dei Fiori end of the street that connects it to the Piazza Farnese, and it’s my favorite place for tramezzini, the triangular, crustless, white bread sandwiches that are as emblematic of Rome as bagels are to New York. (The name of the bar refers to Laurel and Hardy, who are a favorite of Italians, and whose pictures are displayed inside.) Tramezzini can be filled with tuna and mayonnaise, tuna and artichoke hearts and mayonnaise, hard-cooked egg and mayo, cooked ham and cheese and of course mayonnaise, mozzarella and tomato … the list can go on and on, almost always with mayonnaise. My favorite here, however, is the chicken salad sandwiches, strips of tender meat held together with lots of mayonnaise. I have trouble walking by without running in to buy one. (A Roman friend complains that the tramezzini in Rome have lately been spared their usual abundance of mayo -- to make them less fat-laden. You won’t notice this trend here.)