Grand Central Oyster Bar's Oyster Pan Roast

One of New York City’s greatest gastronomic attractions, and indoor sights of any kind, is “the bar” at the Grand Central Oyster Bar, where watching the cooks prepare the pan roasts and seafood stews can be as engrossingly beautiful and amazing as going to the New York City ballet. The cooks work as gracefully as dancers, using the unique, antique, steam-sleeved swivel pots as their partners, to make old dishes as delicious as any new dishes in town. The silvery pots are stationary, but they can be dipped, so their contents can pour into big white bowls lined with toast. The Pan Roast of oysters and clams are among the oldest dishes still served in New York, dating from the first decade of the twentieth century, when Heinz ketchup and chili sauce were new, cutting edge ingredients – in a way the balsamic vinegar of their day. The shrimp, scallop and mixed seafood versions they now serve at the Oyster Bar are newer, but no less wonderful.

In a 1-quart saucepan, or in the top of a double boiler over boiling water, combine the first group of ingredients. Stir briskly and heat until the mixture simmers around the periphery and the oysters or clams begin to curl around the edge.

Pour the mixture into a bowl lined with the toast points. Top with a pat of butter and a liberal sprinkling of paprika.

Eat immediately.