Childs’ Wheat Cakes

I got this recipe from an elderly woman who worked as a home economist for Child’s. It came to me as a carbon copy of a typed recipe on brittle and yellowing “onion skin” paper. It looked like the real thing. I have to believe it is. It would justify Child’s reputation for superior pancakes. These “wheats” are simply sensational – thick, fluffy, and flavorful. The batter makes fabulous waffles, too. The batter has a slightly higher proportion of fat and baking powder than is typical of a contemporary recipe, which is what makes the pancakes particularly high and light, and makes the waffles very crisp and airy. The original recipe calls for melted solid white shortening, which as we all know now contains those dreaded trans fats. I have tried substituting butter and substituting vegetable oil. They don’t work as well. The shortening version is the fluffiest. Butter has it own delicious flavor, but the pancakes have a denser texture. Vegetable oil would be my last choice of fat.

There’s no reason you must make Child’s-size pancakes, but it is interesting to note that pancakes were only 4 ½ inches in the early 20th century. Nowadays, pancakes are 6 or 7 inches across. This batter recipe makes a little less than 3 cups: Use about 1/3 cup of batter for the modern-size pancake. You’ll need a generous ½ cup to 2/3 cup of batter for most waffle irons. Waffles take about 5 minutes, varying with the waffle iron.

In a mixing bowl, beat the egg slightly and mix in the milk.

In another bowl, sift together the flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder.

Using a whisk, blend the dry ingredients into the wet.

Stir in the cooled, melted shortening or the melted butter until well blended. (The mixture can stand for several hours. Keep refrigerated until 30 minutes before baking.)

Bake on a lightly greased hot griddle, or in a large skillet. (The griddle needs to be greased only for the first batch.) Take care not to overheat the pan. A drop of water should sizzle on the surface, but not dance across it. Try out one pancake before proceeding with all the batter.

Pour the batter into a measuring cup. (You should have 2 3/4 cups.) Use a scant ¼-cup of batter for each pancake. If the griddle is too hot, the pancakes will develop ray-like marks on their first side. Turn down the heat. The perfect cakes are high and fluffy and dry.

As soon as the tops of the pancakes are covered with bubbles that are bursting, flip them over. Bake until the second side is lightly browned.

Serve immediately. (If necessary, keep the baked cakes hot in a 200-degree oven while baking the remainder.)