Rashta
(Lebanese Lentil and Noodle Soup)

In my travels as a restaurant critic, I've learned that whatever they're cooking in the kitchen of an ethnic restaurant, no matter how unpretentious a place, it is probably not the food they are cooking most humbly at home for themselves. At least the menu doesn't tell the whole story. This soup is the perfect example. It is so simple and homey that Sonia and Sabeh Kachouh say they couldn't possibly serve it at Byblos, their Lebanese restaurant in midtown Manhattan. Still, to them (and to me and all my tasters) it is heaven on earth. It makes it no wonder that Esau sold his birthright for a mess of lentils. In any case, as Sonia says, the beauty of this soup is its fragrance when you add the coriander and garlic. And you have to be a family gathered in the kitchen to appreciate that.

    1. In a 3- to 4-quart pot, combine the lentils and water. Bring to a boil over high heat and boil, uncovered, until tender, about 20 minutes or so, stirring a few times.

    2. Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat and fry the sliced onions until well browned, at least 15 minutes, tossing frequently.

    3. In a mortar and pestle, mash the garlic with the coarse salt until the mixture is a paste. Alternately, use a garlic press to mash the garlic; then, in a small bowl and using the back of a spoon, mash the garlic a few seconds longer with the salt.

    4. Add the coriander or parsley and mash again.

    5. When the lentils are just tender, stir the garlic and herb mixture into the onions and saute 1 minute.

    6. Add some of the lentil liquid to the garlic and herb mixture, scraping the pan to deglaze it.

    7. Scrape the mixture in the skillet into the remaining lentils, stir and cook 2 more minutes.

    8. Add the mint and boil 1 minute longer. Taste and correct salt and pepper.

    9. Serve immediately, piping hot, in flat bowls.

Advance Preparation: Do not make ahead. If left to stand, the noodles get too soft, and you will have to add more water to bring back the lentils to soupy consistency. Plus, when you keep the soup for more than a couple of hours, even without the noodles, the garlic and herb flavors diminish, and the soup has to be re-seasoned. If there are leftovers, they can be kept refrigerated for up to a week; reheat gently and re-season, using more chopped coriander, dried mint and raw garlic.